As many of you may have noticed, it was a long winter. Vail Mountain
closed on schedule but Old Ma Nature evidently
did not get the memo.
About mid-April it became clear to me that it was either going to be the Baja
or the Betty Ford. I heard Betty Ford had a waiting list, so Jenny and I booked
for the Baja.
Why Mexico? Why the Baja? Temperature comes to mind: mid to high 80’s with
a nice breeze. Maybe more important is the culture. The people of Mexico are
almost unfailingly polite and respectful. Soak, nay bask, in the culture and
come away refreshed.
‘ Feet wet’ by noon
Dateline: Baja, 28-04-2008 (dates in Mexico are dd-mm-yr ... it takes some
getting used to). If you haven’t been to Baja, go; if you’ve
been, return. Frontier flies direct to San Jose Del Cabo. You can be “feet
wet” in the ocean by early afternoon on the day you leave Denver.
From the Cabo airport you can head south to Cabo San Lucas for what I hear
is some pretty nice, high-powered vacationing. We’ve never been there.
North is the direction we always choose. There are many low key spots within
an hour or so driving distance. Our favorite, alas, must remain undisclosed.
For, as great a group as I presume all you gentle readers to be, I’d
rather not meet you there. It’s probably just me, but too many Norte
Americanos in one place is just that: too many. You’ll find your own
favorite place soon enough.
Drive in Mexico? Sure. Rent a car at the airport and take off. I suggest the
maximum in insurance, though, which is pricey. Mexico has a quaint custom regarding
auto accidents: the financial aspects must be resolved at once, or someone
(guess who?) is going to jail until the matter is resolved.
Roads: Good, then bad, then good again. It’s nice to be driving a rental
car.
Driving: The road signs provide a great opportunity to work on your Spanish.
The bridges all have names. And there is even a sign instructing one to read
and heed all the other signs. My favorite: “Ganados Sueltos” (Loose
Cows). Be sure, there are plenty of cows, horses, goats and chickens with which
to share the byways ... look sharp. While I recommend dancing after dark, I
wouldn’t recommend driving after dark.
Drivers: The locals all seem to drive as if they were chairmen of the activities
committee for the town’s street racing club. But it’s sort of a
good-natured hurry. No worries; if you are driving the speed limit (in Kilometers
per hour), don’t feel pressed. However, some of the passing techniques
you are likely to witness will be awe inspiring.
‘ Christ with a conch’
Dateline: La Paz, BCS, 01-05-2008 (a couple hours north on Hwy 1).
We found the capital city without difficulty and even the Malecon area via
some dead reckoning. The Malecon is the seaside street and promenade around
which lots of activity takes place. Our first stop was for directions from
the “Policia Turista.” The young officer was very helpful, pointing
out the direction to the hotel with his pistol.
We stayed at the Posada de las Flores at the north end of the Malecon: a very
nice “boutique” hotel. Check it out. If it doesn’t suit,
simply try another place ... you can’t swing a cat without hitting a
hotel here.
Where’s Ralph? It would appear that Mr. Nader has not spent much time
in Mexico of late. If you did not bring your mom or your nanny with you, you’re
on your own. No GFCI (shock-proof) electrical outlets: you may blow dry your
hair as you bask in the tub if you choose. Things stick up, stick out and have
sharp points. Stairs don’t necessarily have a standard rise. Pay attention;
take care of yourself.
Alimentary alignment: The occasional stomach cramp makes one appreciative:
it feels SO good when the pangs pass. Most trips I have no problems,
on this one only a few. Not to worry, there are plenty of toilets.
Main market: Open air. Refrigeration not a priority. Did you know that eggs
do not require refrigeration until they have once been cooled? There is a warm
egg statute of limitations I’m sure, but I don’t know it. Jenny
and I found the La Paz market by asking directions at a street vendor’s
stand. Even our poor Spanish sufficed; if we can do it, anyone can.
The Malecon is about two miles in length and the walk is paved with ceramic
tiles. There are numerous statues along its length. One grabbed me: it represented
a man striding out of the ocean onto the beach with a large seashell held aloft
in one hand. Lord forgive me, I thought, its “Christ with a conch.” As
I learned later, it represented Hernan Cortes, who first arrived at La Paz
on May 3, 1535 (hence the holiday).
Big doin’s were afoot at this time: May 1 is “Labor Day,” May
3 is La Paz “Founders Day,” and Cinco de Mayo was just around the
bend. Jenny and I could only stay the night, for the next day held a trip on
the Baja Ferry to Mazatlan on the mainland.
‘ Sufficient cerveza’
Dateline: Baja Ferry, 02-05-2008. The ferry leaves La Paz at 3 p.m. and arrives
in Mazatlan at 8 a.m. the next morning, an overnight voyage.
The ferry is a large craft, loaded below deck with a myriad of semi-trucks
and trailers, plus autos. There is room for plenty of passengers on
board, though at this relatively slow time there were only a few hundred
of us. By “us” I mean me and Jenny and local folks. Winston
Churchill’s “V” for Victory sign would have answered
nicely for the total number of U.S. citizens aboard.
The ferry left close to 3 p.m. A slight delay ensued, as I had to assure the
captain that sufficient cerveza had been stowed for the crossing. Counting
in Spanish, I had just reached “ochenta y dos” cases of Pacifico
when I lost count. I was set to begin again at “uno” but the Captain
said, “no mas” and we set sail.
Meals (but no beverages) are included with the ticket. Cabins, with bath, are
available (we booked one). Our shower worked fine, as did the toilet.
The lounge was well stocked with victuals and beverages of various octanes.
The large screen TV/DVD was a big draw: “The Longest Yard” in Spanish
is every bit as entertaining as in English and we laughed when the local crowd
did. “Casino Royale” was a bit harder for me to follow (English
with subtitles). It would appear that I am bilingually deaf.
The crossing was calm and gentle swells made sleeping pleasant. Come the morning,
I spent some time drinking coffee and practicing Spanish by reading the posted
regulations. I am now pretty well versed in the rules for refuse disposal at
sea (at both the 12-and 25-mile limits).
If you can, book a trip. I assure you that you’ll be one of the few on
your block to have done so.
Greeted by friends
Dateline: 03-05-2008, Mazatlan. We arrived on time, and were met at
the terminal by our friends and Eagle neighbors, Bob and Patty Dorf, who had
invited us to join them at their home for a stay. The rumor at the Mazatlan
dock is that Bob and Patty meet every ferry; this I cannot confirm, but they
were there when we arrived.
Charles Lorch is an Eagle resident. E-mail comments or questions about this
article to cschnell@vaildaily.com.
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articles and stories 2008
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